- General
- Widely considered to be the most docile and friendliest pet reptile, the bearded dragon is a first pet for many reptile beginners. To adequately care for one, however, is an undertaking that requires careful attention. Overall, beardies usually live between 10 and 15 years, but it isn't unheard of to have them live longer. Bearded dragons are native to the deserts and scrublands of Australia, an extremely bright continent, so they need adequate lighting, and room to roam horizontally. They have a diverse diet and are omnivores, so they require both protein and fruits and veggies to thrive. Note that beardies have a third, parietal eye that causes them to get spooked if a shadow is quickly cast over it, so usually it's best to handle them by picking them up from the front or the side, where they can see your hand. Bearded dragons will shed often in their youth, but they never stop this process, as it aids in repairing damaged or old scales; the frequency, however, decreases to once every few months upon reaching adulthood. Usually, they can get it off on their own, but warm baths in dechlorinated water help.
- Size
- Usually, a healthy adult male bearded dragon can grow up to 24 inches and weigh up to 550 grams (any heavier is overweight), females tending to be a bit on the smaller side. Typically, subadults fall slightly short of the adult range, averaging 300-400 grams. Juveniles can be anywhere from 50-350 grams (each week makes a difference), and babies and hatchlings are below the juvenile range. Based on size, each age will need different proportionate amounts of protein as a ratio to greens and vegetables.
- Diet
- Note that beardies need external heat to metabolize anything they eat, so it is best for them to bask for 1-2 hours after a meal. The amount fed also depends on the beardie's age; younger baby dragons need to be fed as many bugs as they can eat in 10-15 minutes, a few times daily until they reach their juvenile stage, when greens can be introduced and they can be fed once daily. As they grow to maturity over the course of 1-2 years, they should very gradually be fed decreasing amounts of protein and increasing amounts of greens; for instance, if a juvenile dragon is eating 10 small to medium roaches a day and some greens, a 7-year-old will be eating about a cup of greens daily with 6 or 7 large roaches every 3 days, showing a decrease in frequency and overall meat, creating nutritional balance.
- Protein
- Bearded dragons require proteins from live insects to gain the necessary nutrients and calcium in their diet. Popular options are crickets and dubia roaches. Crickets are typically very difficult to keep alive for extended periods of time,
whereas many people raise dubia roach colonies to feed their reptiles exclusively from, as they keep alive well and breed easily- but not to the point where they can infest homes- they only thrive in very humid, tropical climates and thus are
illegal in the US state of Florida*. Another common option for protein is black soldierfly larvae- these wriggling maggots serve as excellent protein and don't crawl away- they can be easily fed in a bowl and don't make most people uncomfortable,
as can roaches or bugs. Locusts and grasshoppers are also great sources of protein as staple feeders.
*Note that discoid or Turkistan roaches are a good alternative here* - Greens
- As for the plant-based portion of beardies' diet, they need hydrating, dark, leafy greens such as collards, kale, mustard and turnip greens, etc. Lettuce is advised against as it is mostly water, which can cause a runny stool, and lacks necessary fiber. Fruits and vegetables should also be given occasionally, such as chopped tomato, bell pepper, blueberries, or apples. Note that you should NEVER feed your bearded dragon onion or avocado, as these could kill or severely harm your pet; these can lead to death if consumed.
- Treat Items
- The best treat items are natural ones; occasional fruits like pieces of strawberry or blueberry are healthy, but be wary of overfeeding these as too much natural sugar can cause a condition called mouth rot, which is similar to tooth decay in humans. Worms are also great treats; superworms and mealworms are fatty, but many dragons love them. They are also a good occasional source of extra protein if your main staple feeders are running low. Hornworms are another option- great for hydration, these blue caterpillars are full of water. They do need to be watched, though, as they grow quickly and pupate after just a few weeks and turn into tomato moths, so they should be fed to your beardie quickly or refrigerated to slow growth. These are also good for breaking hunger strikes.
- What NOT to Feed
- Never feed your bearded dragon avocado; this vegetable that many people eat on health kicks today has a specific fungal element to its meat that the human digestive system can break down, but that of a bearded dragon cannot. This makes them
very sick, often leading to death. Another thing beardies should never eat are fireflies or lightning bugs; the bioluminescent chemical in their abdomens that allows them to glow is severely poisonous to bearded dragons, and will kill them after
ingestion. Wild-caught or dead insects also should never be fed, as wild-caught crickets or roaches may be harboring diseases, and dead insects are prone to harmful bacterial buildup, which is transferable. Furthermore, onions, garlic, and greens
with high oxalates should be avoided, as oxalates bind with calcium in the dragon's digestive tract, rendering it useless with similar effects as phosphorous.
- Common Morphs
- Red/Colored Bearded Dragon
- A relatively common breed of beardie, they come anywhere between dull reddish to bright orange, to dark red, with many spins on each variation. These are produced through generations of selective breeding based on color selection; pairing the most vibrantly colored bearded dragons from multiple clutches leads to increased vibrancy and frequency of certain colors, including darker browns, reds, oranges, yellows, and greens.
- Leatherback Bearded Dragons
- Leatherbacks are bearded dragons with smaller, smoother scales and less pronounced spikes, making them a bit cuddlier than some of the larger-spike variations. Breed two, however, and you could end up with a silkback morph, for which the ethical implications of breeding are questionable, as their nearly scaleless backs dry out easily and need to be regularly moisturized, and their fragile skin tears easily, especially for females in breeding. Leatherbacks, however, function similarly to any other normal bearded dragons and can bask and live to typical capacity.
- 'Zero' Dragons
- A pale and patternless dragon morph, this breed of bearded dragon isn't quite albino, since it does not lack melanin completely, still being able to have dark eyes, this breed is desired for its unique appearance. Furthermore, these tend to be desireable in the pet trade and often bring in a lot of money for breeders. Similar to Zeros are Witblits dragons, whose muted colorations are caused by similar recessive traits.
- Tank Setup
- The optimal bearded dragon tank size ranges from a minimum of 40 to 55 gallons in a tall, 'breeder' style tank, with the most commonly recommended tank size being 120 gallons, or in between. Usually, however, bigger is better when it comes to space as long as the proper heat and lighting requirements are met. Note that front-opening enclosures are recommended as it makes picking up and taking out your beardie less stressful.
- Heat, Lighting, and Humidity
-
As of heating and lighting, bearded dragons require a basking spot surface temperature of 100-110°F (which can be checked with a spot thermometer), and a temperature gradient from the upper 90s near
the basking spot, decreasing to the high to mid 70s on the opposite side of the tank. In the case that the tank is over 100 gallons, it would be possible to include two basking spots, making sure that the gradient is
still maintained. This gradient is important because beardies need a warm side to metabolize their food when basking, as their digestive system does not function properly without a hot, external source of warmth. Hot
rocks and underneath heat mats are not recommended, however, as they cannot feel heat as well on their underside, and hot rocks especially have been known to cook beardies from underneath, causing third degree burns.
UVB is another incredibly important element to reptile care, and is vital to ensure that they can synthesize vitamin D3, which allows them to utilize vital calcium from their food. A UVB intensity of 4.0-6.0, or a 10-12% strength bulb (tube UVB is better than coil bulbs; coils are only usable in small setups due to the low level of UVB produced). Be advised on how far to place it from the surface of the basking spot based on individual packaging and brands- some are different than others.
Being desert animals, beardies prefer their humidity at around 40-50% or less, as prolonged exposure to high humidity (70s+) can lead to respiratory illness. Also, being desert animals, bearded dragons can accomodate for a natural temperature drop of about ~ 10°F on the cool side, as low as around 65°F at night. Unless their living space becomes colder than this during the night time, no external source of heat is necessary. Many people recommend against colored lighting for additional night heating, though it differs between dragons whether or not it impacts their sleep cycle. For a universally safe bet, however, ceramic heat emitters emit no light, but produce heat, making it easy to bump up the temperature if necessary. - Substrate
- Finding an appropriate substrate is vital to your bearded dragon's long-term health. Substrates like English walnut shell and calcium carbonate sand are inappropriate in most cases, as they tend to be sharp and clump up when exposed to water, posing an impaction risk and a risk of tearing up your bearded dragon's insides. Furthermore, cheap rabbit pellet bedding encourages bacterial and mold growth, so it should be avoided. The best substrate for bearded dragons is either quartz sand, the kind they live on in the wild, on its own or mixed with 100% organic topsoil. Additionally, utilizing sculptable natural, nontoxic clay can help create a burrowing-friendly environment similar to their natural habitat (see Bioactive Terrariums for more information).
- Signs of Illness
- Before you consider getting a bearded dragon, ensure you have access to an accredited reptile veterinarian, as captive bearded dragons can be susceptible to a variety of ailments. For instance, metabolic bone disease from a lack of proper UVB and vitamin D3 will be treated, if severe enough, with calcium injections, or alternatively, there are many parasites and bacterial infections common in beardie husbandry that can usually be treated by medication given orally and fecal testing. For reference, it's always good to get your beardie a once-a-year physical, or at least a once-yearly fecal examination in order to determine whether there is a high parasite load present.
- Typical signs of illness in bearded dragons include unprompted lethargy (if you suspect brumation, it's still a good idea to double check that it isn't a result of infection), gasping for air (different from the gaping that occurs to release warmth from the body when basking-) accompanied by wheezing in the case of a respiratory infection, and especially fecal signs. A runny, undeveloped stool with non-clear urine or discolored urates (the white stuff) is a sign that something isn't right in the digestive system, which constitutes a vet visit.
- Visible corrosion, discoloration, or fungal gunk on the scales is a sign of scale rot, a potentially scarring affliction that can be painful if left untreated. Typically, your exotic vet will prescribe an antibacterial or antifungal cream for application (similar to athlete's foot ointment) in order to alleviate the issue.